A decent pair of leather shoes gets better with age, but only if you look after them. Skip it and the leather dries out, road salt leaves white lines along the welt and the crease across the toes starts to crack. Polishing shoes sounds like something your grandad did on a Sunday night, but it takes about fifteen minutes and the difference is obvious.
This guide covers how to clean leather shoes and boots, how to polish them, which shoe polish to use and how to dry wet leather without ruining it. Got suede or nubuck instead? That needs a different approach, so head to how to clean suede shoes.
What you'll need
- Shoe trees, or kitchen roll to stuff the shoes
- A soft brush or cloth for dust and dirt
- A damp cloth, plus saddle soap or a leather cleaner for heavier dirt
- Leather conditioner or cream polish
- Wax polish in a matching colour, or neutral
- A horsehair buffing brush and a soft cotton cloth (an old T-shirt works)
Cream polish, wax polish or liquid?
They do different jobs:
- Cream polish or conditioner soaks into the leather, feeds it and keeps it supple. Start here.
- Wax polish (the classic tin) sits on the surface, adds shine and a thin layer of protection against water and dirt.
- Liquid polish with a sponge applicator is quick but does little to nourish the leather, and over time it can dry it out. Fine for a quick touch-up, not as your only care.
Pick a shade that matches your shoes or is slightly lighter. If in doubt, go neutral.
How to polish shoes, step by step
1. Laces out, trees in. Shoe trees or stuffed paper stretch out the creases so you can reach everything.
2. Brush off dust and dirt. Pay attention to the welt, the seam where the upper meets the sole. Dried mud comes off with a lightly damp cloth.
3. Clean the leather. A damp cloth is usually enough. If there's old built-up polish or stubborn dirt, use a little saddle soap or leather cleaner, then let the shoe dry for a few minutes.
4. Condition with cream. Work a thin layer into the leather with a cloth in small circles, including the tongue and the creases. Leave it for about fifteen minutes to soak in.
5. Apply wax polish. A thin coat, again in small circles. Several thin layers beat one thick one. Give it a few minutes to dry.
6. Buff it up. Brush briskly with the horsehair brush, then finish with a soft cloth. For more shine on the toe and heel, repeat step 5 with a tiny amount of wax and a drop of water, and buff again.
How often? For shoes you wear weekly, a full polish roughly once a month is plenty. A quick brush in between keeps them tidy.
How to clean leather boots
Leather boots follow the same steps, with a few extras. Brush mud out of the welt and lace hooks before it dries, clean the shaft as well as the foot, and give the area around the ankle extra conditioner, as that's where boots crease and crack first. Work boots and walking boots usually have waxed or oiled leather: skip the shiny wax polish and use a dubbin or a conditioner made for that leather instead.
How to remove salt stains from leather shoes
White lines in winter are road salt. Leave them and the salt draws moisture out of the leather, which leads to cracking.
- Mix cold water and white vinegar, roughly two parts water to one part vinegar.
- Dab the marks with a soft cloth. Don't scrub.
- Wipe over with a cloth dampened with plain water.
- Let the shoes dry at room temperature.
- Condition the leather afterwards, as both salt and vinegar dry it out.
How to dry wet leather shoes
A soaked pair of leather shoes isn't ruined. Drying them too fast is what does the damage.
Don't:
- ❌ Put them on or next to a radiator
- ❌ Use a hairdryer on a hot setting
- ❌ Put them in the tumble dryer
- ❌ Polish them while they're still wet
Leather that dries too hot goes stiff, shrinks and cracks, and the glue holding the sole can give way.
Do:
- ✅ Blot off the water and take the insoles out
- ✅ Stuff them with kitchen roll (not newspaper, the ink can transfer) and swap it once it's soaked
- ✅ Leave them at room temperature somewhere with airflow
- ✅ Condition the leather once they're dry
Left to air dry, that can easily take a day or two. There's more in our guide on how to dry wet shoes, and if you're tempted by the tumble dryer, read can you put shoes in the tumble dryer first.
Drying leather shoes faster with a shoe dryer
If you wear leather work shoes or office shoes every day, two days of drying isn't always an option. A shoe dryer works from the inside, where the sweat and moisture actually are. With leather, temperature is what matters. The Shoefresh Opod (€129) has a LEATHER programme at 40°C, well below its 60°C SPORT setting, so the lining dries without the leather drying out. Its active oxygen also tackles the bacteria and fungi in the lining that cause odour. For leather boots, the Shoefresh Opod Mini (€79) sits down inside the shaft.
"I wear my shoes for work 12h a day and happy to notice that they are dry and feel fresh every day." Frank, November 2025
On a tighter budget, the ShoeDry Airo (around €50) is a simpler option, though it has no programmes, heel dryer or automatic start. Whatever you buy, avoid dryers that advertise UV light: the blue LEDs on cheap models do very little, and genuine UV-C doesn't belong in an open device at home. Our complete guide to shoe and boot dryers explains the options.
How to care for leather shoes day to day
- Rotate your shoes. Leather needs a day to dry out after a full day's wear.
- Use cedar shoe trees. They hold the shape and absorb moisture.
- Use a shoehorn so the heel counter doesn't collapse.
- Protect them in autumn and winter. See how to waterproof shoes.
- Get them resoled in time, before you wear through to the welt.
Leather shoes don't belong in the washing machine either; here's why.
Quick reference
| When | What to do |
|---|---|
| Weekly | Quick brush, damp cloth if needed |
| Monthly | Clean, condition, wax polish, buff |
| Salt marks | Cold water and white vinegar, then condition |
| Got soaked | Stuff with paper, room temperature, then condition |
| Daily wear | Rotate pairs, shoe trees, dry from the inside |
FAQs
How do you clean leather shoes? Remove the laces, brush off loose dirt and wipe the leather with a damp cloth or a little saddle soap. Let them dry, then condition the leather with cream.
How do you polish shoes properly? After cleaning, work in a thin layer of cream, let it soak in, apply a thin coat of wax polish and buff with a horsehair brush. Finish with a soft cloth.
What's the difference between cream and wax shoe polish? Cream feeds the leather and keeps it supple. Wax adds shine and a protective layer. For the best result, use both: cream first, then wax.
How often should you polish leather shoes? About once a month for shoes you wear every week, with a quick brush in between.
How do you get salt stains off leather shoes? Dab them with cold water and a splash of white vinegar, wipe over with plain water, let them dry and condition the leather afterwards.
How do you dry wet leather shoes? Stuff them with kitchen roll, take the insoles out and leave them at room temperature. Never on a radiator. A shoe dryer with a 40°C leather setting speeds things up without drying the leather out.
Can you polish shoes without shoe polish? For a quick fix, a little leather conditioner or neutral balm gives some nourishment and a soft sheen. For real protection you need wax polish.
Fifteen minutes a month keeps good leather shoes looking smart for many winters. Ready for a fresh start!